If you are a skincare aficionado, you have heard of peptides. They are becoming widely used in contemporary skincare formulations by every prestigious company producing skincare lines. Considered a cosmeceutical ingredient, they have many benefits in addressing today’s skincare concerns such as aging, wrinkles, sensitivities, hyperpigmentation, and general improvement of skin quality.
What are peptides?
Peptides are naturally occurring biological molecules found in all living organisms and play an active role in biological activities.
Amino acids are the building blocks of protein. There are 20 naturally occurring amino acids in nature. Combinations of “long chain” amino acids (50+) build different protein structures such as our skin, hair, nails, and organs. Peptides are combinations of “short chain” amino acids (2-50) and can be considered as fragments of protein. Depending on their combinations and shape, peptides communicate with cells carrying messages to different types of protein tissues to promote healing and other skin functions.
As we live life and are exposed to the elements (internal and external), the collagen structures in the skin break down. As a result, in this normal wear and tear of protein tissue, segments of amino acids are formed, creating collagen-like peptides that keep the structure and integrity of the skin looking youthful. As we age, our biological processes of regeneration begin to degrade. Formulating skincare products with these collagen-like peptides are showing to have a positive effect on wrinkles and general rejuvenation of the skin.
The first peptide introduced into skincare was Cu-GHK – a copper peptide in the late 1980’s. It was a synthesized peptide used to “carry” coper, a needed element in wound healing, to damaged skin tissue topically. Real notoriety began in the early 2000’s with Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 that proposed to reduce fine skin wrinkles and roughness in the skin. Now, four major types of peptides are being used in topical cosmeceutical skincare formulations – carrier peptides, signaling peptides, enzyme inhibitor peptides, and neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides.
- Carrier peptides - Act as facilitators in transporting trace elements for wound healing, skin repair and regeneration.
- Signaling peptides - Encourage skin protein turnover and proport to enhance collagen production.
- Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides - Target expression lines by inhibiting the biologic release of chemicals responsible for wrinkle formation.
- Enzyme- inhibiting peptides - Assist in reducing the activities of enzymes that participate in skin aging /very successfully used in skin lightening, brightening, and hyper-pigmentation formulations as they inhibit the enzyme tyrosinase - a key enzyme in pigment production.
Many peptides used in cosmeceutical formulations are synthesized and some are from natural sources. Peptides used in skincare are Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) by the FDA.
KATHLEEN PEARA SKINCARE FOR LIFE Collections contain different amino acid peptides and are effective in attenuating wrinkles, improving the skin barrier from environmental factors and over exfoliation, improving skin elasticity, hydration, easing inflammation, and some assist in helping to clear breakouts as they are antimicrobial.
Some examples of peptides used in the Collection formulas are:
- Telangyn™ (Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40) addresses inflammation - SENSI SKIN Collection
- Haloxyl™ (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7) firms, addresses eye contour dark circles/attenuates fine lines of eye area - E-TONE Collection
- Corum Peptide 8813 - Clinically proven anti-wrinkle ingredient/ helps with natural collagen synthesis and strengthens connective tissue - VITA C+ Collection
- Syniorage® (Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11) increases skin firmness and resilience -REGENERATE & RESTORE Collection
- Argireline® (Acetyl Hexapeptide-3) inhibits muscle contraction for anti-wrinkle action - REGENERTATE & RESTORE Collection
- Eyeseryl® (Acteyl-Tetrapeptide-5) reduction of eye puffiness - REGENERATE & RESTORE
Peptide cosmeceuticals should be used consistently to obtain desired results. As with any good skincare ritual, your skin should be analyzed by a professional esthetician for the right product prescription for your skin’s needs.