Hydroquinone has been one of the most touted and effective ingredients in US skincare formulas, both OTC (over the counter) and prescription, for addressing unwanted hyperpigmentation skin issues, skin lightening, and brightening. What does it do? It inhibits and slows down the production of the enzyme tyrosinase responsible for melanin (pigment) production in the skin. 2% has been available in OTC formulas for many years, and higher percentages on the shelves of plastic surgeons and dermatologists.
As of September 23,2020, hydroquinone was banned in the US for use in OTC skincare products and products sold in doctor’s offices. The regulation was included in the Cares Act 0f 2020. It also states an FDA approval is necessary for a product to be brought to market using hydroquinone. The medical field may prescribe hydroquinone; it must be compounded at certain types of compounding pharmacies and for individual patient use.
Hydroquinone has been banned, for many years, in the EU, Australia, Japan, and Canada due to its cyto-toxic and possible carcinogenic effects on the human body. One of the major concerns for the use of hydroquinone is its overuse and in very high concentrations, often exceeding 10%, for skin lightening the face and body areas. One of the most severe and rare side effects is ochronosis, a blue-black or grey blue discoloration in the skin. This condition is seen in individuals that have used high concentrations of hydroquinone for long periods of time, and sometimes over large areas of their body. It also is more prevalent in women and men of color. Additional side effects such as stinging, irritation, allergic contact dermatitis, inflammation, are some other reported side effects.
There are of number of alternative solutions for those concerned with hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone. Cosmeceuticals have several ingredients, some from natural sources and some through peptide and laboratory technologies, to address these concerns. By combining good skin care products that formulate with some of these ingredients, support from a clinically trained esthetician and / or a physician, you can expect good results in hyperpigmentation issues and skin illumination. Therapies such as laser, spot peels, and cryotherapy (liquid nitrogen) can assist in spot treatment reduction of hyperpigmented areas. General skin rejuvenation with improvement in skin vibrancy can be achieved with lasers and peels.
Some of the ingredients being used in cosmeceutical formulations for pigmentation issues and skin illumination are:
- Kojic Acid – Skin illuminating agent made from malting rice/evens skin tone/ used in Japan for decades for lightening and brightening the skin
- Daisy Blossom Extract – Melanin (pigment) inhibitor
- Licorice Root – Skin illuminator/antioxidant/regenerating
- MAP (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate) – Melanin (pigment) inhibitor
- Alpha Arbutin – Superior alternative to hydroquinone for addressing melanin (pigment) production
- Vitamin C – Has a brightening and lightening effect on the skin/antioxidant
- Glycolic Acid – Has lightening effect on the skin as well as it is an exfoliant
- Resorcinol – Has a lightening effect on skin
KATHLEEN PEARA SKINCARE FOR LIFE offers the E-TONE Collection, introduced in 2018, as an alternative to hydroquinone for skin illumination and pigmentation issues. The VITA C+ Collection offers superior antioxidant properties for pigmentation issues that may develop through sun exposure.